Specialized plant metabolites have the potential to revolutionize cosmeceuticals if used to develop targeted formulas for skin health, but scientific research and sustainable development must deepen, say scientists.

Writing in the Journal of Agriculture and Food Research, researchers from Morocco, France, and India outlined the plethora of opportunities in advancing cosmeceutical applications of specialized plant metabolites (SPMs) for skin benefits in a scientific review.

“SPMs hold great potential in revolutionizing the cosmeceutical industry due to their wide-ranging biological properties and multifunctional benefits for skin health,” the researchers wrote. And there were many “emerging trends and future directions” for innovative use of these plant metabolites in the field, they said.

Promise for Targeted Skin Health

The review outlined various skin health benefits associated with specialized plant metabolites or secondary plant metabolites—the bioactive compounds synthesized by plants but not directly involved in fundamental physiological processes like growth, development, or reproduction.

These compounds, for example, were renowned for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and dermatoprotective effects, with SPMs like flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, alkaloids, saponins, and polysaccharides already used in skincare products targeting issues such as aging, pigmentation skin, and acne.

And it was here—in targeted areas of skin health—that the researchers said there was plenty of promise for future innovation.

“One emerging trend in the cosmeceutical industry is the integration of plant metabolites into targeted skincare products,” they wrote. “... Personalized skincare approaches, where SPM formulations are tailored to specific skin types and conditions, represent a promising avenue for future development.”

Using compounds like polyphenols, flavonoids, and terpenoids extracted from plants like green tea [Camellia sinensis] and pomegranate [Punica granatum], for example, to protect the skin against oxidative stress, UV damage, and premature aging, was being increasingly explored. And research was rising around use of phenolic acids and carotenoids from plants like carrot [Daucus carota] and turmeric [Curcuma longa] as skin-brightening agents and protectors against free radical damage. Some flavonoids like apigenin and luteolin and several terpenoids were also being explored for soothing skin irritation, reducing redness, and alleviating conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema. and psoriasis. And plant chemicals or alkaloids, notably caffeine, were being researched for targeting cellulite and stimulating lymphatic drainage.

Bioavailability, Stability, and Clinical Efficacy Challenges

However, the researchers said “major challenges must still be addressed” in the field of specialized plant metabolites, specifically around clinical efficacy, formulation stability, and bioavailability. 

“To fully unlock the potential of SPMs, future research should prioritize a deeper understanding of SPMs mode of action, elucidating the pathways through which these metabolites interact with skin cells, receptors, and other biological systems, providing insights into their therapeutic potential.”

The researchers said better understanding on how natural antioxidants worked to protect the skin from oxidative stress, for example, or how plant metabolites modulated various inflammatory pathways to alleviate conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea was needed. It was also important to research further photoprotection through UV light absorption and antimicrobial activity through correcting pathogen imbalance.

Beyond this, key efforts were invested in developing more “innovative formulation approaches” like encapsulation, nanotechnology, and other advanced systems to enhance the delivery and effectiveness of specialized plant metabolites, the researchers said.

Currently, many bioactive compounds such as polyphenols, flavonoids, and terpenes had poor water-solubility, and so efficacy was limited when applied topically. Similarly, specialized plant metabolites were prone to degredation when exposed to environmental factors like light, air, moisture, and heat, which shortened shelf life and ultimately compromised final product effectiveness.

According to the researchers, using encapsulated delivery systems like liposomes, niosomes, and polymeric nanoparticles, therefore, helped increase skin absorption and duration of action of SPMs. Additionally, biotransformation by microorganisms enabled the creation of novel cosmeceutical ingredients with enhanced functions.

"Strategic Emphasis" on Sustainability

As efforts pushed forward in the use of specialized plant metabolites in cosmeceuticals, the researchers said sustainability also had to be a “strategic emphasis.”

“Green chemistry techniques and advanced, low-impact extraction methods, such as supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) and pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), can play a vital role in minimizing the environmental footprint of SPM production. These methods reduce the use of toxic solvents, lower energy consumption, and improve the overall yield of bioactive compounds, making them more sustainable alternatives to traditional extraction techniques.”

The industry could also prioritize using parts of the plants considered by-product or waste from other industries and invest in renewable sourcing, they said, selecting plants that were sustainably cultivated or harvested with minimal ecological disruption.

“Incorporating sustainability into the research and development of SPM-based cosmeceuticals is not only essential for minimizing environmental harm but also for meeting the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly and ethically produced skincare solutions,” the researchers wrote.

“By integrating sustainable practices throughout the production cycle—from sourcing to formulation—cosmeceutical companies can contribute to a more sustainable and responsible industry while enhancing the therapeutic benefits of plant-based skin care products.”